Escape to the West Kootenays

Written by: Karen Ung

Escape to the West Kootenays – a land of lakes, mountains, and hot springs – for the perfect blend of relaxation and adventure! Hike, bike, zipline, or paddle; then relax on a beach, soak in the hot springs, or explore the region’s diverse historic sites. With base camps at Nelson and Nakusp, you’re guaranteed a fun summer road trip!

Discover Nelson

Start your trip in Nelson, a pretty city on the shores of Kootenay Lake backdropped by mountains. Explore historic Baker Street’s colorful buildings that are home to one-of-a-kind boutiques and art galleries, and dine at Thor’s Pizza, the Yellow Deli, or El Taco (all family favorites). On Wednesday mornings, you can stock up on fresh local produce at the weekly Farmer’s Market, too!

Next, head to Cottonwood Falls Park and Japanese Garden for a peaceful stroll or pop over to Rotary Lakeside Park to cool off. With a sandy beach and swimming area, tall trees, SUP and kayak rentals, and ice cream at Rose Garden Cafe, there’s no better place to be on a hot day! While you could walk the scenic Nelson Lakeside Path (6km round-trip), we recommend taking the historic Streetcar #23, which has been restored and electrified, along the waterfront. Streetcar rides are by donation: recommended $3 per adult or $8 per family.

At nearby Kokanee Creek Provincial Park, learn about the salmon lifecycle and witness the awe-inspiring sight of thousands of salmon making their way upstream (the salmon spawn in late August and September). While you’re there, check out the Nature Centre and Redfish Coffee Bar and Gift Shop, take the Canyon Trail to a small waterfall, play on the sandy beach, or stand-up paddleboard (rentals available). Camping reservations are strongly recommended for this popular lakeside park just 20 minutes northeast of Nelson.

Outdoor Adventures In and Around Nelson

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• Hike to a Scenic Viewpoint: Pulpit Rock (3.5km round-trip, 315m elevation gain), and Lyon’s Bluff (3.2km, 325m elevation gain) offer fantastic lake and mountain views just nine minutes from Nelson.
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• Bike the Great Northern Rail Trail: Strong cyclists can ride the dirt and gravel trail south from Mountain Station Parking Lot to trestle bridges and a lake. It’s 3.5km and 82m elevation gain to the first trestle, 4.5km and 106m elevation to the second trestle, or 15km and 354m elevation to Cottonwood Lake. All distances are one way. Tip: Make it easier (and more fun) by renting e-bikes!
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• Go Whitewater Rafting: Brave the Slocan River’s Facchina Rapids on an exhilarating whitewater rafting experience with Nelson Whitewater Rafting.
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• Fly Over a Canyon: Kokanee Mountain Zipline offers an exhilarating, fully-guided tour of six ziplines over Kokanee Creek Canyon, with a minimum weight of 22.7 kg or 50 lbs. Located just 26 minutes northeast of Nelson.
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En Route to Nakusp

The road to Nakusp is scenic and steeped in history. Here are some of our favorite things to do along the way:

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• Take the world’s longest free ferry from Balfour Bay to Kootenay Bay. The 35-minute ride across Kootenay Lake is beautiful!
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• Soak in the steamy 150ft horseshoe cave at Ainsworth Hot Springs, then cool off in the stream-fed plunge pool, and enjoy the views from the lounging pool.
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• In Kaslo, don’t miss Fletcher Falls (250m one way), Kaslo River Trail, featuring eight Hide & Seek sculptures and the Trailblazer Bridge, and the historic SS Moyie paddlewheeler.
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• The Nikkei Internment Memorial Centre in New Denver shows what life was like for forcibly-relocated Japanese Canadians (like my Grandpa) during WWII and is located on the site of a former internment camp. After checking out the displays and artifacts, visit the lovely Heiwa Teien Peace Garden.
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Explore Nakusp

Nakusp, a picturesque town on the shores of Upper Arrow Lake, is home to three hot springs and countless off-the-beaten-path adventures. Camp at gorgeous McDonald Creek Provincial Park or rent a cabin at Halcyon Hot Springs or Nakusp Hot Springs so you can stay a while!

For a lovely day at the lake, take the Nakusp Waterfront Walkway past several gardens to Nakusp Beach, Rotary Play Park, CP Rail Caboose, and the skate park. Pack a picnic and enjoy Music in the Park at the gazebo (across from the beach) on Wednesday nights in July and August from 6:30 to 8pm.

If you’d like to get out on the water, Summit Lake is perfect for paddling with kids, as it’s smaller and calmer. Try Nakusp Marina and McDonald Creek Provincial 

Park (paddle to the island across from the campground!) in the mornings and evenings, or pick up a Nakusp-Arrow Lakes Paddling Map from the Visitor Centre for paddle-in beaches.

Have bikes? Mount Abriel Recreation Site’s pump track, bike park, and 48km of cross-country and downhill mountain biking trails are fun for all ages. The Nakusp & Slocan Rail Trail, which runs 46km from Rosebery to Nakusp, is another good option for families.

Some nice, short hikes around Nakusp include:

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• Nakusp Hot Springs to the beautiful Kuskanax Creek Footbridge (a two-minute walk) is a must-see! Continue to Kimbol Lake if time allows (9.3km round-trip, 380m elevation gain).
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• Vicky’s View is a short and steep trail that overlooks Upper Arrow Lake (3km round-trip, 340m elevation gain).
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• Cedar Grove Trail is a beautiful, 1km loop hike through huge old growth western red cedars up to 2m or 6.5ft in diameter.
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When it’s time to relax, soak in the soothing mineral waters of Nakusp Hot Springs (hot pool and warm pool), Halcyon Hot Springs (four pools with lake views to soak in, plus spa and restaurant), or Halfway Hot Springs (wild hot springs!), and let your worries melt away.

Discover the beauty of the West Kootenays this summer. With hot springs, epic mountain biking, and gorgeous mountain lakes, the only downside is that you might not want to leave!

Karen is a mother and a lover of maps, mountains, and mochas. With her geography degree and experience leading hikes and backpacking trips in the Rockies, she is full of ideas on where to go and what to do. The mission of her blog, Play Outside Guide, playoutsideguide.com, is to provide everything families need to know to get outside and have fun.

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